TJ Speaker Pod Deadening

---

Want an easy fix to a factory flaw? How about some more depth to your overhead speaker pods found mounted to the rollbars? Head over to the hobbystore and and pick up some Polyfill, that's right ... Polyfill. You know, its the fuzzy soft material used for stuffing pillows and even stuffed animals. A bag of this retails for about $3.00 or less and for our use, it is about the best three dollar fix one could ask for.

Start by removing your factory or non-factory speakers from your speaker pods. There are four screws that attach them to the internal screw clips that are seated around the screw holes. Once removed, the speaker will drop and expose a hollow inside. This is where most of your sound coming from your speakers is being trapped. It actually adds an echo to the speaker causing poor sound quality. Open top Jeeps have enough problems keeping sound inside the vehicle, so why not make it better then what it actually is?

Once the speaker is removed, open up your bag of Polyfill and pull out a big handful. What do you do now you ask? You stuff it all up in the hollow speaker housing filling all the gaps you can. Do not worry about overheating or fires (unless you have a wiring issue), the Polyfill actually is flame retardent. It simply shrinks if it catches on fire and molds to a hard plastic material once burned down. After filling in the hollow section with the stuffing, go ahead and reinstall your speakers and covering grills. This install is complete once you finish the adjacent side. Time to turn on the tunes and hear the difference. Its subtle, but if you have a good ear its a massive change in quality and depth of tone. Give this little trick a try and see what you think. You can also use this "stuffing" technique in the front dash speakers or any other hollow backed speaker.

Jeep® TJ Diagnostic Codes

How to display the codes:

1. Turn the ignition key On - Off - On - Off - On within 5 seconds
   

2. Count the number of times the check engine lamp on the dash flashes on and off.
   
   The number of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual two digit trouble codes.

Example: Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, and flashes 5 more times. This indicates a code number 55. A code 55 will always be the last code to be displayed. This will indicate the end of all stored codes.

Also, the code numbers will be displayed on the vehicle's odometer. Each number will be displayed with a slight delay between numbers. Again, code 55 will always be the last code to be displayed. This method should work for Jeeps up to 1997.

Code	Description
11	No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. CKP sensor target windows have too much variation.
12	Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles.
13	No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmosphere) pressure reading from start-up.
14	MAP sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. 5 volt output to MAP sensor open.
15	No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions.
17	Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits. Engine does not reach 20º F. within 5 minutes with a vehicle speed signal.
21	Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency. Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. Oxygen sensor voltage too low, tested after cold start. (Upstream or Downstream) Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating temperature.
22	Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage.
23	Intake air temperature sensor input above or below acceptable voltage..
24	Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.
25	A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed.
27	Injector 3, and/or 4, and/or 5, and/or 6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.
31	An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit. Insufficient or excessive vapor flow detected during evaporative emission system operation.
33	An open or shorted condition detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit.
34	An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
37	Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement. Auto. only.
37	An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit. (3 speed auto RH trans. Only). Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch. Auto. only.
41	An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit.
42	An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit. An open condition detected in the ASD relay output circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the fuel pump relay control circuit. An open circuit between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. Circuit shorted to voltage between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. No movement of fuel level sender detected.
43	Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
43	Misfire detected in one or more cylinders 1 thru 6. (4 and 6 cyls.)
44	Battery temperature sensor in voltage above or below acceptable range.
46	Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.
47	Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output circuit.
51	A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
52	A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.
53	PCM Internal fault condition detected.
54	No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking.
55	Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp.
63	Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.
64	Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 72)
65	Power steering high pressure seen at high speed. (2.5L only)
72	Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 64)
77	Malfunction detected with poser feed to speed control servo solenoids.

TJ Hand Throttle Installation

Have you ever been caught between a rock and hillside and you need an extra foot? Well, a hand throttle may be the thing for you. If you have a manual transmission and sometimes you need an extra foot to get over the rocks or keep from rolling backwards on a hillside then this is the “BOMB”.

There are several write-ups on the net and this is the one that works for me. Most everything I got to do this was given to me or was really cheap to buy. Cost me a breakfast at Mickey D’s for one item. Thanks TJODD!

Here is a list of materials:

1. Gear shifter from a 10 speeds or equivalent bike. Make sure you get one without detents cost 1 breakfast at Mickey D’s



2. Spare heater hose ½” or whatever fits gear shifter. Cost FREE had extra hose in tool box



3. Bicycle cable kit from Wal-Mart. 2 cable worked and 2 were extra that I didn’t need. Cost $12.99 or so give or take a few bucks.



4. Adjusting hardware from bike shop. They let me look through their nut and bolt bins to see what I could use. Found a long slotted threaded adjuster with a thumbscrew. Cost FREE



5. Throttle return spring from Jeep dealership Cost $5-$10 dollars.

First Step: I located throttle on shifter where it wouldn’t interfere in shifting. Use heater hose cut to size to help clamp to gearshift.

Second Step: Run cable through grommet through firewall, I previously ran some fog light wiring and had a hole there. Seal with silicone.

Third Step: Route cable to throttle body, be sure to keep off anything HOT. If you have cruise control you will have to fabricate an “L” bracket and attach to throttle cable bracket. I mounted mine where the auto tranny shifter cable goes. Using the adjusting hardware and washers I threaded my cable and wire through and secured it to the throttle bracket with washers and nuts.

Fourth Step: On the new throttle return spring, bend the spring to remove the gray clip, thread the wire from the cable through this clip. Attach to the throttle allow a little slack and install cable crimp connector.

Fifth Step: Adjust tension on hand throttle so it will return to idle when released.

It takes some getting use too, but it is sweet when you need it. I have used it a few times and it works great. My first time out I had the cable to tight and it kept my throttle above idle so I had to re-adjust the cable so it would return to idle when released.

Spidertrax Wheelspacer Kit

Pros:

• Adds 2.500" of track to the front and rear of the Jeep.
• Allows for wheels with larger tires and smaller rims to be mounted with correct backspacing.
• Quick and simple install.

Cons:

• They are recommended for off-road use only.
• For larger tires, the extra track doesnt help much.

Cost: $129.00 per set. 2 sets are needed per vehicle.

As we all know changing tires and rims is a big moment in a Jeepers life. What style of rim to choose, what type of tire to use and what is everything going to cost, are all major questions each of us have thought about when upgrading our tires and rims. For my Rubicon, I really liked the looks of the factory rims and larger tires. The only problem was that when installing larger tires on smaller factory rims, things tend to rub and the backspacing ends up being a little off. After hearing about other Jeepers using wheelspacers to correct these issues, I began doing some research. The number one wheelspacer manufacturer was Spidertrax. I figrured I would give it a shot.

I put a call out to Spidertrax Offroad for a full set of their 1.25" wheelspacers. Spidertrax quickly sent out a full set of their top quality aluminum wheelspacers specifically designed for my 4.5 bolt pattern. The Spidertrax Offroad wheelspacer kit comes complete with everything needed for a quick and easy install. Included in the box is one set of 1.25" spacers, 10 lugnuts, detailed instructions and a package of Locktite 271. Since I had two axles, I would need two kits and each kit retails for $129.00, so be prepared for a total bill close to $300.00!

The installation of the spacers was quick and easy. In fact, it took more time jacking up the Jeep then it did putting the spacers on. Allow for about an hour of total install time with the correct tools for two sets of spacers. So with that said, lets move onto the installation.

The first step in the installation is to remove the tire and any drum/rotor retainer clips if present. Once these are removed you apply the supplied Locktite 271 to the factory studs and put on the spacer with the supplied lugnuts. Have a buddy (which is another good thing to have around) apply the brakes to prevent the drum/rotor from spinning while tightening the lugnuts in a criss cross pattern to 85-110 ft-lbs of torque. Once you have the spacers installed, go ahead and mount your tires/wheels as normal to the lugnuts coming from the spacers. Torque these down to the required specs as well and you are ready to go.

** Important: Since the spacers are only recommended for off-road use only, it is recommended to double check the torque of the spacer after 50 miles of driving. I would highly suggest checking the torque after 300 miles too, just to be sure things are still holding tight.

All in all, the install was quick and easy. The 2.500" of track added to the Rubicon corrected any backspacing issues with my larger tires. One thing to remember though, is that you are still riding on smaller rims, so do not expect all of your ride issues to be handled immediately. The wider stance on my Rubicon has allowed me to run larger meats, but on the downside my rims are still only 8.5 inches wide. In the future, I plan on keeping the spacers and upgrading my rim width to allow for more control and stance issues. The Spidertrax wheelspacers are worth their weight in gold if you want a semi-wider stance or if you have backspacing issues due to larger tires and at $129.00 a set, who can go wrong?? I am even going to pick up a set for my WJ, just to allow for a meaner and wider look. Thanks for the great product Spidertrax!!

For more information and ordering check out Spidertrax on the web @ www.spidertrax.com

Submitted by: scuba

Tough Stuff Paint Protectors - Upper Door Guards

Manufactured by Tough Stuff Products

* Door Protectors Install Fender Protectors Install

Windshield Protector Install

---

Have you ever ran across a product and thought "why didn't I come up with that?" The guys over at Tough Stuff Products have come up with just that type of product. Peel and stick paint protection for your Jeep® Wrangler. According to their website, they are a "group of like-minded individuals who saw a need for some common-sense, high quality, reasonably priced products for the vehicle and firearm accessory markets". With that in mind, I ordered up a set of paint protectors for my doors and fenders. A couple of days passed and they were on the front porch with scuba's name written all over them.

The paint protectors themselves are die-cut from abrasion resistant, O.E.M. quality, U.V. stabilized (non-fading/yellowing) textured vinyl with permanent acrylic adhesive. One thing to remember here, these protectors are not "grip tape" like you might think they are... The protectors are offered in either a clear or black color and are removable if you ever wanted to take them off, but why would you want to do that?? Ok, now onto the install....

First and foremost, kudos to Tough Stuff Products for providing such a great set of instructions. They were highly detailed and easy to understand. With that said, I scanned down through the instructions and decided to give the set I bought for my doors a go.

On to the install...

The installation of the door protectors was very quick and easy. Actually, it took more time prepping the surface for the protectors then it did to install the protectors themselves. The preparation of the surface is a very important step, in that the paint protectors have to adhere to the body of the Jeep and any blemish can cause problems with bubbles and adhesion. The instructions say to use 70% alcohol for preperation and to wipe down all surfaces three times until no haze is viewable. I would recommend cleaning the surface area exactly like they mention, but I wouldnt "rub hard with a paper towel" as they say to do in the instructions. You could easily dull a paint job very quickly by doing so. I used 70% alcohol and a soft terry cloth towel for cleaning my doors,

With the surface of the upper doors cleaned and prepped, the installation was quick and painless. Tough Stuff Products makes it easy on you with the door protectors as you can line up the protector over the door lock. Use it as your guide to align the rest of the protector. Once you have it aligned, use masking tape or painters tape to "mark" where the protector will lay. I used little sections of tape as its much easier to move things around and remove once the install occurs. After taping all around the protector, do a quick double check to make sure you have everything where you want it. Begin by removing the back half (the section by the lock) of the tape that you had recently applied, making sure to leave the front have securly adhereed to the door. Gently lift the protector towards you and peel off the adhesive backing. Once you reach the center of the protector, either tear or cut the waxy paper (the backing) from the main protector. Starting from your tear/cut, carefully press the protector down on the surface of the door. Its a good idea to run your hand down the protector as you are applying it to the door itself. This just ensures that air bubbles will not be present beneath the protector (which we had no problem at all). Once the back half of the protector was installed, we removed the remaining tape and backing material and proceeded to apply the other end of the protector.
After the protector is in place, rub down the entire protector with a clean paper towel to ensure the adhesive is in full contact with the door. Take a minute or two and make sure you have all of the edges rubbed down well. If you have any air bubbles, this is when you will see them. If they do occur, try to work them towards the edge of the protector. If they will not disperse into smaller bubbles or move to the edge then use an exacto-knife and carefully slice a small slit in the bubble itself, then apply a small amount of pressure as you smooth them down. One thing to note is that the instructions state that you should not direct a pressure washer at an angle around the edges for 10-14 days after installation. This is very important and can mess up the the protectors adhesion if you do not follow the instuctions accordingly.

The door protectors come in either black or clear finishes. With installation being a breeze, and the clear instructions, this mod is very easy to tackle single handedly. I have been told that these have been on test vehicles for a couple of years and there has been no problems with the adhesive letting go or with the ever so dreaded fading factor. If you decide you would like to remove them for any reason, all you have to do is heat them up with a hairdryer and they will slowly peel off without damaging the paint beneath. All in all, this is an inexpensive and practical modification that Tough Stuff Products has so thankfully produced for all the Jeep® enthusiasts everywhere.

Submitted by: Scuba

Waterproof Neoprene Seat Covers

---

Whether you're out on a trail or cruising down the road with the top off, chances are, you've gotten your seats wet. Over time this can wreak havoc on your ride by making your seats smelly and moldy, or even causing the body of your Jeep to rust. I know from first hand experience how bad water in your seats can be. I had read many reviews about Wet Okole Neoprene Seat Covers over the years and had already made up my mind that they were the seat covers I wanted. The only issue was the cost. It's not everyday that someone wants to spend over $200.00 on a seat cover. Thanks to my family and my putting a little money off to the side, my Wet Okole's became my birthday present this year.

Pros:

• Custom fit to your seat - Choose your exact seat style
• Serious protection against water - Made from neoprene - the same material wet suits are made from
• Comfortable - Seat back and bottom are bonded to a 1/2" foam for added comfort
• Longevity - Custom made from quality fabrics to for long life
• Many options available for customization

Cons:

• Cost - can easily cost over $250.00
• Fading from UV rays - You'll need to buy a seat care kit ($15.00) to help stop fading
• Installation - This can be tedious and require patience
• Certain sections might not fit correctly at first, requiring additional adjustment

Taking a look at the Wet Okole website, you'll find that you could stay there all day looking at the many different combinations of styles for different vehicles. As a Jeep owner, we are always on the lookout for functionality meets cool, and these definitely fit that description. I ordered my front set with the optional back pocket (for an extra $20.00 per seat) and the half piping option ($39.99 for both) and anxiously awaited their arrival. About six weeks later they arrived, and then it was time to install them.

The install went smoothly with the exception of having to fight with the actual seat itself. Wet Okole isn't kidding when they say their seat covers are custom fit - because the fit is very snug and extremly precise. It almost makes you think they had been sewn together while on a seat in the actual vehicle. After a few tugs, and some work with the velcro strapping and clips, we were ready to go. My only complaint about the fitting of the cover is how the pull handle on the Jeep isnt snugged in. The cover just goes around it and doesnt grip it. I think I understand why they did this, but when you're paying close to three hundred dollars for custom seat covers, I think they could have made this section of the cover a little "cleaner" looking.

All things considered, I would highly reccommend Wet Okole's to anyone concerned with the preservation, style, and functionality of their Jeep. These tailor-made seat covers are very comfortable to sit on and can perfectly match the look of your ride. As far as any negatives go, they are easily dealt with and well worth the trouble.

For more information about Wet Okole and their products, check them out on the web at www.wetokole.com.

Submitted by: Scuba

Rocky Road CB Antenna Mounts

New jeepers have a laundry list of accessories they want to immediately buy, such as lights, GPS units and stereo equipment. One item we frequently get questions about is the CB. Although citizen band radio, or CB has been around in one incarnation or another for over 60 years, it is still very popular and isn't showing any signs of fading away. CB radios help jeepers stay in communication with each other whether out on the trail or driving around town. Each year, manufacturers develop new and interesting products and ways to install your antenna. Finding the right mount for your Jeep can be pretty difficult. Here is something that worked for me and might just work for you.

Even with all my years of experience in searching for the right parts on the Internet, tracking down the right CB antenna mount seemed nearly impossible. I wanted a no-drill antenna mount that wouldn't interfere with the function of my top or its hardware. I have seen mounts that go behind the Jeep® tail lights, on the rear bumper, on the fender and even on the side exterior panels of the vehicle. None of these really fit my needs, not to mention I was still running the factory bumper, and it wasn't equipped with any sort of mount, like most factory bumpers.

I stumbled across a company called Arizona Rocky Road. After reading about their antenna mounts, I was hooked. They are very simple to install and they require no drilling or modifications to your Jeep® in order to mount them. The owner, Rick was great to work with as we corresponded back and forth with emails. I ordered up a single mount and before you knew it, it was sitting on my front porch ready to install. The mounts are heavy duty, all steel, hand crafted and finished in a flat black. Rick also throws in a Firestik Stud Mount for the ease of connections, and recommends a quick disconnect for quick removal of your antenna if needed. I got all of this for $29.00!

Upon installation of my antenna mount, I went through and texture coated the entire mount, leaving a nickel size section on the top of the mount unpainted for conductivity. As the paint was drying, I removed spare tire from the back of the Jeep® and unbolted the third brake light placing the bolts to the side. This was the toughest part of the installation.... seriously! After the Rocky Road Antenna mount was totally cured, I placed it in line with the three bolt holes on the back of the third brake light and grabbed my trusty socket to tighten everything down. I had to use a dremel tool on a section of the mount to flatten it out so that one of the bolts would snug up all the way, but that was by no means difficult or required. I threw the spare tire back on, and installation was complete.

If you're looking for a mount for one or multiple antennas, I recommend you take a look at Arizona Rocky Road's mounts. Rick is great to work with and is very quick on shipping your order. He has his own EBAY store, which makes things flow smoothly. Make sure check out his other products as well; he has quite a variety to choose from.

Submitted by: Scuba

Colored Gauge Overlay Kit - TJ

On my quest to add a little flare to my Rubicon, I stumbled across a little site called 4x4mods.com. They manufacter decals kits for CJ's, YJ's, TJ's and even XJ's. Not only do they have decal kits, they also have several other products available ranging from switches to glow in the dark gauges. Since we have had a lot of questions about the overlays on the Rubicon, we decided it was time to do a write up. So let's get things kickin'!

One can order the decal kits in a variety of colors including chrome and carbon fiber. I chose dark blue to match the Rubicon's Patriot Blue, and let me tell ya, the color is almost a perfect match. The kits can either be purchased off of ebay or you can buy them directly through the site. I ordered up a set and within 10 days, they arrived ready to be put on. First things first though.... The instructions that 4x4mods.com includes with their gauge overlay kits are probably the most complete instructions that I have ever read. They were very detailed and contained clear color photos. A rare thing to see these days.

Accessory manufacters take note of that last statement!

As for the kit itself, it comes with a variety of overlays. There are decals for the gauge cluster, the needles, a clinometer (if you have one) and even a matching Jeep logo for the steering wheel (if applicable). The instructions say that you only need a pair of scissors and a screwdriver for installation, but I would highly recommend a few other things....

1. a flat blade or plastic spatula for removing dash components
2. a squeegee for applying decals

Lets begin with the installation. The main step involves pulling out the gauge cluster, which actually isn't all that hard, there's just a lot of screws...

The first part of the install involves removing the plastic cover from below the steering column -- there's two screws holding this on, use your plastic spatula to help pry the component down and out of the way. Next, there's two screws at the base of the cluster that need to be removed... Go ahead and remove these as well, since you will need to later on. Be careful and keep track of the screws and where they go. Re-alignment of these screws is crucial when putting the dash back together.

Now, its time to remove the top dash plate with the aid of your plastic spatula. There are 5 clips holding this piece in and they can easily be broken if you dont take your time with this part of the install. Just slide the spatula down the length of the dash and the clips will automatically just pop out. This exposes the three screws holding the top of the gauge bezel to the dash. With a small phillips screwdriver, removed these screws and place them to the side with the others. This in-turn, shows us that we have 4 other screws taht we need to remove from the cluster in order to get the gauges out. Remove those four screws and the gauge bezel can be lifted right out. Before removing it from the vehicle, just remember to disconnect the plugs that control the lights and computer features of the dash. A simple pull on the plugs and you are ready to go. No worries about the odometer either, it will not be reset or broken by releasing these plugs.

Separate the clear lens and the black ring bezel by pressing in the tabs around the clusters edge. Now you can install the overlays, which are precision-cut vinyl decals. The original markings are visible through holes in the overlays, so everything lights up as normal at night. The speedometer and tachometer overlays slip over the needles, while the other four overlays sit above the needles. You definitely want to take care aligning the overlays correctly. I used the decal squeegee to help remove any bubbles and to help apply pressure on the decal itself for maximum bonding. Now all you have to do is give the cluster a good cleaning from fingerprints and reassemble in the opposite order you took it apart in.

I would highly recommend taking this time as well to clean the bezels around the dash and any pieces you took off. I used a plastic polish on the clusters clear lens too. Might as well clean it all if you are going to clean it. A few dabs of plastic polish and a slight swirling motion applies the cleaner to the lens. Let it dry to a haze and then use a clean towel to polish to a shine. This is just an optional step in the installation and is not required for the decals, but I would recommend it since the cluster and the dash has been taken apart.

The Final Word:
I am very pleased with the looks of the decals and would highly recommend these to anyone looking for something unique to add to the appearance of their Jeep® vehicle. 4x4mods.com has brought a great concept to customizing and they have it down to a science. Get your set today and get to customizing, and better yet...its all for less then $30.00!

For more information, contact:

4x4 Mods
P.O. Box 28537
Bellingham, WA 98228-0537

Ice and Snow Removal for Soft Top Windows

Cold temperatures, ice, and snow can all wreak havoc on a Jeep Wrangler soft top. You need to be especially careful with your plastic/vinyl windows in the winter months, and take the following precautions:

• Don't raise or lower the soft top when the temperature drops below 41 degrees. The material is a synthetic which loses some of its resiliency at low temperatures, and it can actually become damaged if it is flexed in too cold temperatures.



• Never attempt to roll-up the vinyl windows or even open them at the zippers during the winter months. Believe it or not, they can shatter like real glass when they are cold.



• Before you even TOUCH your vinyl window -- from the inside or outside -- make sure you give them enough time to warm up and become supple first. Otherwise, you are likely to crack them.



• Never "smack" the vinyl window hoping that the snow and ice will bounce off!



• Never remove snow from your vinyl windows by hand (or by any other means, for that matter). With a soft top, patience is a virtue... You should just wait for the heater to warm the vehicle from the inside, causing the snow to slowly melt off.



• Until the snow/ice thaws and falls off the Jeep windows itself, you may have to get used to using the 2 side mirrors.



• You could use a ceramic heater with a timer (available at most hardware stores), and run it a half hour prior getting in the Jeep. The snow & ice will melt off, allowing you to see through your windows as soon as you get in.



• Some people point a hair dryer toward the windows (but not for too long). However, by the time you're finished, the Jeep's own heater would likely have had the same effect -- from the inside.



• Never pour water on your vinyl windows in an attempt to remove ice or snow. Your windows may crack.

Sylvania SilverStar Headlamps - TJ

Sylvania SilverStar Headlamps - TJ

---

Tech Breakdown


• Tools required:
  T-15 Torx driver
  
  
• Total Cost Analysis:
  < $50.00 per pair
• Installation Time:
  <>

If there is one part on just about every 4x4 ever built that needs upgrading, it's the headlights. Sure, some of the high-buck SUVs today come with fancy-schmancy Xenon HID (High Intensity Discharge) lights, but most-likely, you aren't driving one of those on the trails. We know we sure aren't!

Recently, Sylvania released a new line of headlamps, called the SilverStar. Still based on a Halogen design, the Sylvania claims the SilverStars are brighter and whiter than run-of-the-mill Halogens and almost as bright as HIDs. They also meet all US and Canadian requirements (FMVSS 108 and CMVSS 108), and standards for visibility, color, and safety.

Even though our Rubicon was fairly new, we thought that the lighting system could use a little kick. For the install, we will be using it as the guinea pig. It is the one you will see in the pics throughout this article.

The SilverStar line is available in both sealed-beam (what our rig used) and capsules like you'd find in, say, a Grand Cherokee. The Jeep Wrangler Rubicon used an H6024ST.

Installation is very straight-forward. We always joke about some companies including instructions that merely say "Remove old part. Install new part." Well, that's pretty much the deal here. It's a headlight, afterall.

For the installation on any TJ, you'll need a T-15 Torx driver. Fairly simple huh...one little thing though....be careful where the the Torx screws fall when removing them. I would recommend using a magnetic driver, or a simple piece of duck-tape underneath the headlamp bezel.

Before our specific install, we had to remove our headlight guards but thankfully, they used the same retainer screws as the headlamp.

What is important to note, though, is that once you are finished installing the headlights, be sure to adjust them properly so they hit the road evenly and at the right distance. Too often, four-wheelers lift their rigs but never aim their headlights back down and end up blinding everyone that comes toward them. Don't forget this step! This can be done on an empty, dark road with the help of a Phillips head screwdriver. You can also pull up to a wall or garage door to make sure that they are even.

According to Sylvania, SilverStars burn at 4000K, which is nearly as white as standard HIDs which burn at 4100K. For comparison-sake, standard Halogen bulbs burn at 3200K and daylight is 5400K.

HID systems can run $500-1000 or more to convert a non-equipped vehicle. The SilverStars we are running in our Rubicon cost about $50 per pair, compared to roughly $30-35 for Halogens. When you look at the cost differences and the huge benefits of the SilverStars, there's simply no question as to which headlights to buy - the Sylvania SilverStar.

Don't forget to have a few buddies help you out if you are uncertain on the install or if you just want company.

Like we always say ... "it always helps to have a couple of buddies help you out"

PRODUCTION NOTE: The following bulb models are coming soon...H1 H3 880 893 9145 9040 9055 The H3, 9145 and 9055 are all listed as fogs for a variety of Jeep products.

Click Here to buy Sylvania SilverStars

TJ - Hi-Lift/FarmJack Mounting "How-To"

TJ - Hi-Lift/FarmJack Mounting "How-To"

---

Tech Breakdown


• Tools required:
  Basic Socket Set
  
  
• Total Cost Analysis:
  < $10.00
• Installation Time:
  <>

I found this on a jeep forum, but I really don’t know who to give the credit to. I would imagine it has been improved with every application. Thanks to fellow jeepers more of us can enjoy getting out and getting dirty but fixing things with a clean jack. (Whether it be a "Farm Jack" or a "Hi-Lift").

This is a simple but different way of inexpensively mounting your Hi-Lift/Farm Jack out of the weather and out of the way. Using 2 fencing clips "Tension Bands", 2 lag bolts, a few washers, nylon lock nuts, I was able to easily mount my Jack in 15 minutes.

The technical term for the fencing clips is a "tension band" used in chain link fence construction to secure the actual chain link to the poles. It looks like this and comes in different sizes. I found mine at Lowe’s in the fence department, but you can order one below:

http://www.discountfence.com/chainlink2/fittings.htm

To determine the size of your tension band, measure your roll bars with the padding compressed to get the proper diameter. The size of bolt will be also be determined by the diameter of the bolt hole in your tension band, I used a 2 ½" long lag bolt because I didn’t want to have to much of the bolt sticking out once the jack was in place.

I placed the "Tension Bands" around the rear roll bars and used the lag bolt, I was able to secure the band to the roll bar with the first lock nut. I also threaded another lock nut half way down the bolt and placed a large washer on the bolt over that nut. I used lock nuts because I didn’t want the nuts to back off the bolt with all the vibrations a Jeep tends to have. I completed the other side and placed the jack through the protruding bolts against the washers. I added the extra lock nut and washer as I found that when you tighten the nuts to secure the jack, it tended to pull the tension band around the roll bar and bend the bolt if you tighten it to much. The extra lock nut and washer half way down the bolt stopped this from happening.

Once the jack was in place I simply added another washer and lock nut to the bolts and tightened. Be careful to mount the jack low enough down your roll bars to keep the jack out of the way for anyone that rides in the back (with the jack lower on the roll bars there is no chance of anybody bumping their heads or if the Jeep was ever rear ended).

After the jack was mounted, I cut a piece of foam insulation, that is used to wrap copper piping, and wrapped the shaft of the jack so the handle wouldn’t rattle against it. You can use a piece of a Velcro strap or wire to secure the handle to the jack. The base of the jack is stored in the back or under the rear seat, clean and secure.

You can use many different locking techniques for your jack, from cable locks to bike locks and so on. Find what works best for you. The lock nuts aren’t a security feature but they will help keep passer bys from stealing your jack without a wrench. I also come across bolts with a hole drilled through the end of them to fasten a small lock or cotter pin, but these bolts were easily broken as the hole tends to weaken the end of the bolt itself.

There are many variations and ways to mount your jack but I found this to be the easiest and cheapest way to keep a clean and secure jack.

Submitted By: Big "Canuck" Mike

TJ - Re-Centering Your Steering Wheel

TJ - Re-Centering Your Steering Wheel

---

1. With your tires pointing as straight as possible (leave your steering wheel rotated) and your tires on the ground, loosen the bolts on your drag link turnbuckle using a 15mm deep socket or wrench.



2. Grab the turnbuckle with your hand and rotate it a little bit at a time. Check your steering wheel periodically while doing this until it appears to be centered again.



3. Try to make sure that the bolts are pointing away from the track bar (rotate just the bolt sleeve and not the turnbuckle itself if necessary) and then tighten up the turnbuckle bolts.



4. Take your Jeep out for a test ride and determine if you need to make any other adjustments. It may take a few times to get it right but at least it is easy to do.



5. If you just installed a 2"-3" lift, that should be about all you need to do. However, if your lift is 4" or greater, you should seriously consider purchasing a set of adjustable control arms so that you can properly set your caster.